Every figure checked against its source on 5 November 2026
Cooling a loft conversion: what actually works?
A wall-mounted split is normally the neatest answer for a loft conversion, provided there is a stretch of wall tall enough for the indoor unit and a route down to an outdoor unit at the rear. This guide covers why lofts run hot, what the regulations miss, what to try first and how the job works in a Croydon terrace or semi.
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Name, number and postcode. We ring you to go through it.
Why is the loft the hottest room in the house?
Because it has the sun above it and every other room's warm air beneath it. In 2019 Li, Taylor and Symonds at UCL modelled a semi-detached house in London and found its converted loft at significantly elevated risk of overheating next to the ordinary bedrooms. Converted lofts are found in 5.8% of homes in England and 10.8% in London, so this is a common problem in the capital's suburbs. The authors concluded passive measures alone would not eliminate overheating and that active cooling was likely to be needed by the 2080s. Source: Li, Taylor and Symonds.
Don't the building regulations cover this?
Not for a conversion. Part O of the Building Regulations has required new homes to be designed against overheating since 15 June 2022, but the Planning Portal says it applies to new residential buildings only, and Elmhurst Energy notes it does not extend to existing homes being extended or converted. So a loft conversion signed off in 2026 can meet every regulation and still be too hot to sleep in. Elmhurst reported in April 2026 that the government plans to review Part O, including conversions, but nothing has changed yet. Sources: Planning Portal; Elmhurst Energy.
What is worth trying before you buy?
In the same UCL study, external shutters cut overheating by 96% and night ventilation by 89%, and ventilation was the most cost-effective option. External blinds on a roof window are a simple fit and need no planning thought. If you can leave the windows open safely at night, do that first. Air conditioning is for the lofts where none of that is enough, or possible, or quiet enough. Source: Li, Taylor and Symonds.
Where can the indoor unit be mounted in a loft?
On a wall that is tall and solid enough: the gable, a dormer cheek or a stud partition that has been built to carry weight. A unit needs clear air above and in front of it, so a low knee wall is no good. In a loft with very little full-height wall, a floor-standing console unit on the eaves wall can work instead. Headroom is the first thing we measure.
How do the pipes get down to the outdoor unit?
Usually through the eaves storage and down the rear wall in trunking, or down inside a cupboard that stacks with the rooms below. The outdoor unit cannot go on a pitched roof as permitted development, so it ends up at ground level at the back or on a flat roof at least a metre from the edge. In one of Croydon's conservation areas it has to be out of sight of the road in any case. Source: Planning Portal.
What size does a loft room need?
More than its floor area suggests. iHeat's guidance says a loft room may need a larger system than a similar room elsewhere, and roof windows add solar gain that a standard table ignores. We size from the room, its insulation and its glazing. For a first estimate see the size guide. Source: iHeat.
Questions people ask
Can it heat the loft too?
Yes, if it is reversible, and lofts are often the room the radiators serve worst. See air-to-air heat pumps.
Should I fit it while the conversion is being built?
If you can. Running pipes before the plasterboard goes on is far neater and cheaper. Ask the builder to leave a route and a power supply.
My loft has no reachable outside wall. Is it hopeless?
No, but the route gets longer and the drain needs thought. A survey settles whether it is worth it.
Where these facts come from
- UCL, Li, Taylor and Symonds: overheating risk in converted lofts (2019)
- Planning Portal: Approved Document O on overheating
- Elmhurst Energy: why Part O should cover conversions (June 2025)
- Planning Portal: heat pumps on houses and flats, permitted development
- iHeat: what size air conditioner for each room (May 2026)
Useful to have ready
With these we can give you a straight answer on the first call.
- Your postcode
- Flat, house or business premises
- Who owns the outside wall, if you lease or rent
- Which room, roughly how big, and which way the window faces
- Any conservation area or listing you know of
Ready to go ahead? Air conditioning in Croydon covers what we fit, what we look after and where we travel.
Ready to have it fitted?
Home air conditioning
Bedrooms, top-floor flats and loft rooms, with heating thrown in.
Air-to-air heat pumps
Cheaper warmth than a plug-in heater, and cooling from the same box.
Air conditioning installation
A survey, a written price, then units, pipework and electrics fitted properly.
More guides
How much does air conditioning cost?
Unit prices, labour, electrics, running costs and the extras flats add.
Planning permission for air conditioning: when you need it
The permitted development conditions, with Croydon's exceptions.
Can you have air conditioning without an outdoor unit?
Monobloc units explained: what they do well, where they fall short.
Air conditioning in a flat: who has to say yes?
Leases, freeholder charges, the one-unit-per-block rule and office conversions.
Is bedroom air conditioning worth the money?
The 26°C rule, what to try first, fixed or portable, and what a night costs.
Which size of air conditioner is right for the room?
A room size table, the adjustments that matter, and why bigger is not better.
Checking an installer on the F-gas register
Company certificates, personal qualifications, and who issues them.
Portable or fixed: which air conditioning should you buy?
A fair comparison, including when the portable wins.
Prefer a call back?
Leave your postcode and a line about the room, and we ring you. Or ring 020 8194 3009.